BROOME

Day 27 Sunday 20th
Odometer 22977 Temp

Our third B & B was the nicest and most expensive. We enjoyed breakfast outside next to the pool. I had a parfait with yoghurt, muesli and berries, raison toast and juice. Mark had banana pancakes. We walked to the courthouse markets 50m from where we were staying. We wandered around for an hour or so but didn't buy anything. We continued to Chinatown

to check out the jewellery stores as I wanted a staircase to the moon charm for my necklace. We stopped at the Cygnet Bay Farm gallery and saw the largest pearl, valued at over $1million.

We wandered through Johnny Chi Lane and bought some shoes before heading to the Paspaly Centre for lunch. I wandered off and checked out the Japanese Air Raid Commemorative Plaque

the Hard Hat Monument

and Sun picture Theatre.

I wandered back through Johhny Chi Lane from the opposite end and read the plaques which had the history of Broome.

We wandered out to Streeter Jetty where we could see hundreds of small red crabs as the tide was out.

We drove out to the Women of Pearling Statue

and stopped at the Japanese Cemetary

before continuing on to Gantheaume point. Julie walked down to the rocks to try and find the dinosaur footprints that are only visible at low tide.

I am not sure if what I saw were dinosaur footprints but they sure looked like it.

We drove out to Cable Beach to view the sunset.

We walked to Wings Chinese Restaurant for dinner. There was only one other customer in the restaurant. The decor was basic, the food was okay, nothing special but very expensive.

Total Mileage 10,032

The Big Holiday Begins

A retrospective journal of our trip from Sydney to the Kimberley April 27th to 10th June

Mark (51) wanna be rally driver & Julie (48) ‘impulsive’ intrepid explorer

Mark's favourite saying whilst driving on unsealed roads 'Momentum is your friend'

Julie's favourite saying 'I only want to go for a short walk'

This is our 2^nd Australian road trip. Our plan to drive from Sydney to the Kimberley via Kalgoorlie, returning via the coast road in 44 days.

Odometer 12945

Sydney to Trundle

Friday 27^th April

Our initial plan was to leave as soon as Mark finished work. Mark ended up taking the day off work as his infected toe was looking nasty. We left a little after midday. Our first stop was at Queen Elizabeth Park at Lithgow. I missed most of this part of the trip as I slept having worked night shift the previous night. Our next stop was at the kennels as you drive into Orange to see Mark’s cousin Louise. We had an early dinner at Red Rooster in Orange before pushing onto Trundle and our first night’s accommodation at old family friends. We arrived at Mary & Ellis’s at 6.30. We spent a pleasant evening chatting about places to visit on our trip. An early night was the order of the day as we had a huge drive the next day.

Mileage 413kms

Trundle to Port Augusta

The Big Wet

28th April 
Trundle to Port Augusta

Odometer 13358 Temp. 8-23

Today we had an early start as we knew it was going to be a long day of driving. We left Mary & Ellis’s after breakfast hitting the dirt at 7am, with Ellis’s warning to watch out for wildlife. We headed towards Condobolin on the first of many dirt roads. Seeing our first ‘live’ wildlife after only 4 minutes when a small roo bounded across in front of us. A mere 14 minutes later Mark spotted a fox crossing the road. We were surprised by the large amount of flooding still present around Condobolin including seeing pelicans in flooded paddocks and roads half washed away.

We continued via Lake Cargelligo to Hay. Over a period of hours we spotted no less than 19 emus.

At 9.30 (approximately 145kms from Hay) I glanced at the car gps which Mark had programmed for Port Augusta and noticed our anticipated arrival time was 3.50, 6hrs to drive 1102kms! 

We stopped to refuel at the BP at Hay ($1.57.9). We should have driven through town to the Shell which was 4 cents a litre cheaper. We stopped at the Caltex Roadhouse Balranald for an early lunch (1220). I had a very nice salad sandwich, whilst Mark enjoyed a steak sandwich. Our first change of drivers and we were back on the road again by 1.10. Approximately 70kms south of Morgan on the Burra-Renmark Road we spotted an Echidna crossing the road. Unlike the roo and the fox the Echidna hung round long enough for us to get some photos.

 By 5pm Mark was ready to take over the driving again. On our way into Port Augusta we spotted a rabbit and two more foxes. We limped into Port Augusta at 8pm stopping at the drive through at Hungry Jacks for dinner. 

Mileage 1237kms 

Total Mileage 1651kms

Port Augusta to Eucla

Don’t Judge a Book by its Cover

Day 3 29^th April 
Port Augusta to Eucla

Odometer 14595 temp 12-28

Today, was another early start. We were on the road by 6.45. Our first stop was the Shell service station ($1.54.9). Our first wildlife spotting occurred within a few minutes of leaving the service station, when a fox ran off from the dead roo it was feasting on. Over the next hour we saw a wedge tail eagle, 2 wallabies and an emu beside the road. Apparently the half way point across Australia is Kimba where the Big Galah lives.

The Big Galah, Kimba

 It was soon after leaving here that we ran into the first of many behemoths on the road. The truck was so wide it was taking up 1 ½ lanes of the road on a two lane road. Mark was picked up by a radar doing a 122kms/hr in a 110km zone. Mark was treated like a criminal by the local police and received a hefty fine and lost 3 points off his license. Our next fuel stop was Ceduna ($1.54.9). Even though it was early for lunch, being only 11am we decided to have a bite to eat. Not a lot of choices, so we chose Bill’s Chicken n Seafood. Mark had the deep fried butterfish (which was excellent) & chips (which were okay). I had a green salad, potato salad and a small amount of the whole chicken we bought. We were back on the road again by 1150. Over the next few hours the drive was uninspiring, with very little to see. We missed the turnoff for the Head of Bight, as it was not particularly well sign posted. By 1545 we had reached the first of many roads that lead to views of the Great Australian Bight.

The Great Australian Bight from the Nullabor Marine Park

We checked out views at two lookouts over the Bight. One of these was the 
Nullabor Marine Park which had amazing views.

It was 5.40 by the time we arrived at Eucla. Thankfully I had booked ahead as it was the last room available. Our room was VERY basic. The bed was surprisingly comfortable and the bathroom was clean with good water pressure in the shower. The door rattled with the breeze (GALE!!) but was rectified by placing a suitcase against it. I convinced Mark to drive down to the telegraph station ruins before it got too dark around a 15 min. drive on a dirt road. 

The Telegraph Station at Sunset

Mark refused to walk to the jetty, a 1.5kms walk from the ruins walking in soft sand. Hopefully I will get the opportunity to see it on the way home. On our return to the hotel we stopped at the illuminated cross which is dedicated to all Christians passing by and the John Eyre Memorial. 

The restaurant was closed so dinner was a steak sandwich and a yummy hot chocolate at the café.
Mileage 970kms
Total Mileage 2630kms

Eucla to Kalgoorlie

What time is it?

Eucla to Kalgoorlie

30^th April 

Odometer 15575 Temp 19

Another long day was just beginning starting with breakfast of cereal & yoghurt in our room. After filling the car up ($1.89.9) we were off by ?6am. I found it very confusing with the different time changes to ascertain what the actual time was we left. An hour into our journey we came across a truck that had broken down, Mark actually had the appropriate tool to help repair the broken ‘intercooler hose’. Over the next hour we spotted 2 wedge tail eagles, 2 wallabies and a roo.

We stopped at the Madura Pass Lookout with sweeping views of Madura Pass and the Roe Plains. One of the web sites I read suggested ”whilst at the lookout it might be worth pondering that between 15 and 45 million years ago sea levels repeatedly advanced and retreated in this area of the Nullarbor”.  Must say it all escaped me.

Just prior to Cocklebiddy we spotted another 2 emus. 

We figured we weren’t going to see any camels so purchased Biddy a dancing, extrovert camel from the roadhouse at Cocklebiddy population 8. 

The drive between Cocklebiddy and Balladonia was uneventful. Lunch was a salad roll purchased at the Balladonia Roadhouse. Mark had the roll with chicken in it and they put the salad in a container and I had it with a small amount of chicken. Whilst we waited for it to be made we wandered around the small museum adjacent to the shop.

80kms from Norseman we passed the Dundas Nature Reserve which was devoid of water. The fuel level was getting critical so Mark topped up the tank with 10L diesel from one of the jerry cans we were carrying. We arrived at Norseman at 2.20. Whilst Mark filled up at the Shell ($1.60.9) I walked down to the roundabout and took photos of the feral metal camels.

We continued onto Kalgoorlie arriving at 4.30. We hadn’t prebooked our accommodation in Kalgoorlie. We went to the Discovery Holiday Park and booked into a cabin. Mark spoke to the receptionist who was extremely helpful in providing information about places to eat that night and where we could shop the next morning. We had dinner at the REC hotel, all you can eat for $28pp. The food was okay. They had a broccoli salad which was amazing and the hot donuts were fantastic.
Mileage 919kms
Total Mileage 3549kms

Kalgoorlie to Kookynie

Let the Holiday Begin

Day 5 1^st May 
Kalgoorlie to Kookynie

Odometer 16494 Temp 24
Following 3 ½ long days of driving today was the first day we could slow down and start to enjoy our holiday. First order of the day was fuel at the Shell ($1.59.9). I hadn’t pre booked our accommodation in Newman so whilst Mark was filling up I made phone calls about our accommodation. There was no accommodation available in Newman which meant we had to drive to Meekatharra so we could get past Newman the next night.  I was happy once I had confirmed accommodation in Meekatharra and Munjina. We went to the tourist information centre to enquire about a pit tour as the Mining Hall of Fame was still closed. They directed us to another office two blocks up the road. Mark went to enquire about the tour and I took photos of the Paddy Hannan statue. 

Paddy Hannan discovered gold in Kalgoorlie 18th June 1893

There were no spots available to do the tour that morning and they were charging a hefty $70pp. After a big shop at Woolworths we continued up to the super pit lookout where we had amazing views of the pit.  

They also had a dragline

and a truck tipper tray at the lookout

We were heading north to Menzies at 11.50, where we planned to have lunch. Menzies was a lot smaller than I expected, little more than one street. I expected to be able to order lunch from the pub. What was available was hot food like you would find in a take away store and pre packaged roast dinners in a plastic container. I had roast beef for $12.50. We went for a walk down the main street and took some photos of the buildings in town

before heading out on the dirt road towards Lake Ballard at 1.45pm.

There were several salt lakes on the way out to Lake Ballard they could have used to house the sculptures. It took us 1 hr to drive the 52kms on the corrugated road. We only passed one vehicle on the way out to the Lake. They have a notice board just inside the turn off to the lake which we should have stopped off at first then we would have known NOT to climb the small hill on the edge of the lake. We spent an hour wandering around looking at a handful of sculptures.

Julie climbed the hill

and took photos across the lake. 

south

west

south west

On our way back to the car we spotted this cutey

and these beautiful native plants

By 3.30 we were back on the road again heading back to Menzies before continuing on to Kookynie via Niagara Dam. I would have liked to have had more time at the dam. We only had sufficient time to take some photos before continuing our journey. 

Niagara was a very popular spot to free camp. We continued on to the pub at Kookynie which we found with little difficulty. The 100 year old pub is one of a handful of surviving buildings from the gold rush. 

Our room was small with a double bed, a single and a wardrobe. 

The shower and toilet were out the back but under the main roof. Despite the cook being out of action following shoulder surgery, we enjoyed a perfectly cooked steak, salad and chips for dinner cooked by our host and proprietor Kevin. Mark and I chatted about our travels in the USA the previous year, whilst Kevin spoke of his travels to the Sturgis Car Rally. The only downside was the pub is powered by a diesel generator which is turned off every night so Mark was unable to use his CPAP overnight.

Salt on Lake Ballard

The remnants of a fence on Lake Ballard

Niagara Dam

Niagara Dam

Mileage 390kms
Total Mileage 3949kms