Broome to Fitzroy Crossing via Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek

Day 12 8th May

Broome to fitzroy Crossing via Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek

Odometer 19692  Temp 24 -37

First order of the day was filling up and buying some basic supplies for the next two days. There were lots of stray cattle and a baby roo beside the road on the way to Derby, so care was required whilst driving. We reached the Prison Tree, a large Boab by 10am. 

A few photos and we were back on the road again. The beginning of the Gibb River Road is sealed, adequate for one car with both verges on a 30 degree angle. We had only been on the road a short period of time when we saw an oncoming road train who was obviously not in a position to utilize the verge. Mark had to drive outside the white post markers to get past the road train. 

Thankfully the rest of the trip to Windjana Gorge was uneventful. 

The plan was to walk into the Gorge. The first part of the path was flat.

 Then we had to clamber over and through the rocks.

On the other side were the most amazing 90m high walls

My knee was still bothersome so we only walked to the sandbank where there were a number of small fresh water crocodles sunning themselves on the bank. 

I managed to stand 25m from these guys

Amazing views of the gorge

Mark only made it as far as this rock

A panorama of the gorge

If I had been fit I would have followed the course of the Lennard River along the full length of the gorge (7kms 2hrs return)

On the way back to the car we spotted this larger crocodile sunning itself.

We ate lunch at one of the picnic tables before heading out. Lunch was chicken, cheese and salad sandwiches, followed by crème caramel. It was so hot our water was hot. We were back on the road again by 1.30. A few minutes after leaving a Brahman Bull decided to obstruct the road and then a large kangaroo crossed the road approximately 10 metres in front of us as we slowed down for a dried up creek bed. 

Thankfully he didn't stay in the middle of the road for long

I had not anticipated there would be any water crossings as we made our way to Tunnel Creek. So was surprised when we had a 3m water crossing, even if it was 8” deep.We arrived at Tunnel Creek by 2.20. I was determined  get into the tunnel. 

I didn’t anticipate having to climb over huge boulders. 

We had to walk through shallow water before we even entered the cave. 

Not only did we have to clamber over rocks but also squeeze through fairly narrow passages

The water once we managed to get into the cave was only ¾ up my calf. 

There were little fishes and small yabbies in the water. Given the difficulties I had walking and insufficient light from our one torch we only ventured as  far as the entrance.

By 3.30 we were back on the road again. In all my research I had not read anything about problems with the road between Tunnel Creek and the Great Northern Highway. We crossed 8 water crossings and of these four had significant water in them. On the seventh water (60cm deep x 15m across) crossing Mark actually walked the crossing to check the depth before driving across it. 

Of course no unsealed road is complete without road works. It was at this point we had our second encounter with some cattle. We finally made it to Fitzroy Crossing Lodge by 5.20. The lodge is located through town beside the Fitzroy River. Our accommodation was a Safari Tent. 

Beautiful sunset over the Fitzroy River

Having a quiet one after a very long day

We booked dinner for 6.30. After a day hiking we were both ready for a hot shower. Unfortunately we had no hot water so had to be satisfied with a quick wash. Whilst we were at dinner staff moved ALL our belongings (which were many) to another room. Dinner consisted of Pate, Barramundi and steak. We splurged and had desert Chocolate Crème Brulee and Vanilla & Rasberry Panacotta, yum. 

Mileage 516kms
Total mileage 7263kms

Fitzroy Crossing to Kununurra

Day 13 9^th May 

Fitzroy Crossing to Kununurra

Odometer 20208  Temp 28-33

We were fueled up and on the road by 9am. We passed numerous small termite mounds as we headed east then north. Our first stop was at Mary’s Pool. There was a sign warning of crocodiles before we crossed the bridge into a large free camp area. What they should have warned against was old naked people. 

I was surprised by the size of Hall’s Creek. We spent nearly an hour at the visitor centre chatting and buying souvenirs before heading out to Chinamen’s Wall which is located approximately 4kms down Duncan Rd. The first half of the road was a wide unsealed road which narrowed the further we drove out from town. On the left was a gate which is kept closed to keep the cattle in. This road was little more than a narrow track, most of which was suitable for a two wheel drive until the last 3m which was a bit uneven. Not much of the wall is actually visible from the car park.

On our way back down the track I noticed a similar rock formation on our left. To get a good view I had to climb onto some rocks.

We returned to town and ate lunch in the car near the river –salads we had bought at the service station in Broome. We were back on the road by 1.40pm. Prior to reaching Warmun we saw the first of three Dingo’s. We stopped at the Turkey Creek Roadhouse as we had to eat an orange we had in the car due to restrictions and the risk of fruit fly. Diesel was a hefty $2L at Turkey Creek. We spotted two more Dingo’s as we approached Kununurra (40kms and 30kms out of town). 

It was a relief to arrive at the caravan park a bare 15 mins before they closed at 5.30. Once we had checked in I asked them about contacting East Kimberely Tours to find out what time they were picking us up the next morning, only to find out I had booked the tour for the wrong date. After many phone calls between Cassandra, Paul and I over several hours we finally confirmed we would be picked up at 5.45 by Shoal Air so an early night was the order of the day. Unfortunately the bad news didn’t stop there. We were informed that Alligator Air had been grounded by CASA and they were unlikely to be off the ground on Saturday when we had our tour booked with them to the Mitchell Falls.

Mileage 742kms

Total Mileage 8003kms

Bungles

Day 14 10^th May 

Bungles.

Neither, Mark or I slept very well, probably worried we would sleep in. I still managed to take a moment to nip outside to take a sunrise shot of the Sleeping Buddha from in front of our accommodation.

Shoal Air was prompt in picking us up at 5.45am. Mark & I were the only passengers in the plane a 6 seater Cesna 210. 

We had great views over the spillway 

and the crops

The view of Lake Argyle Dam wall was amazing. It is hard to believe that this 200m long wall is all that holds the water in Lake Argyle. The pilot mentioned Lake Argyle had been at 210% capacity after last year’s huge wet season but the locals are still on water restrictions along with everyone else in WA.

Our previous flight over the Bungles in 2008 was disappointing with very poor views and photos. This time we had a clear view of the Bungles.

Paul from EKT tours picked us up from the airport

and transported us back to the camp site

where we met Fran his wife who provided us with a second cooked breakfast of eggs, bacon, tomato, sausage, toast, juice, cereal, tea & coffee. Paul’s mum (Norma) & dad (Bob)and cousin were staying at the camp. Bob and Paul were among the first to explore the Bungles in 1983 and opened it up for tourism. We stopped briefly at the tourist information centre where we picked up a Swiss couple before heading out to Echidna Chasm.  It was a 35 minute drive out to Echidna Chasm from the tourist information centre. 

Even though it was still early it was a hot rough walk into the chasm along a rocky creek bed. 

where we passed some pretty native plants

The chasm opened out to this oasis of palm trees

High up on the top of the gorge walls was one lonely tree

Further into the hike we had to climb up two short ladders. Hope that rock doesn't fall!

and over a few large rocks

At 11am we were back on the road again for the nearly hour drive back to camp for lunch. Lunch was a pretty quick affair, only 30 minutes which proved to be sufficient time to eat the salad provided by Fran. At approximately 12.30 we were back on the road and heading in the opposite direction towards Cathedral Gorge. We passed the only other permanent camp ground. Didn't look as nice as our camp site.

We glimpsed the first of the beehive looking rocks on our way

and a termite mound beside the road.

The car park is surrounded by these amazing rock formations

It was almost 35 degrees and we were exposed to the sun at the beginning of the walk.

The walk was much easier than Echidna Chasm and the view of the striped domes were amazing.

We spotted this water monitor enjoying a swim in one of the pools we passed

 a beautiful flower

and these termite mounds growing out of the side of the rocks.

The walls are extremely fragile

A semi permanent pool

Mark captured the reflection of the clouds in this pool of water

almost there

We finally reached the end of the gorge where a lovely pool was tempting us.

I would have loved to have stayed longer in this area as it was amazing.Unfortunately we had to head back to camp.  

Mark & Julie Cathedral Gorge Purnululu

Our last stop on the way back to camp was to view these elephant shaped rocks

We had time to relax before dinner so were able to sit out the back on the verandah and listen to Bob talking about the early years at the Bungles.

Sunset at the EKT camp

A group of campers joined us for dinner which consisted of steak, chicken parmigiana and vegetables. Desert was fantastic, a cheesecake using chocolate ripple biscuits as the base. Fran is an amazing cook.

Purnululu from the air

Conglomerate

Plants will grow just about anywhere

that rock

termite mounds abound

bird shaped flower